Unfortunately, no real experience doing this affair, other than on products and glass other than motorcar drinking glass. Drill-stopping the cleft hopefully eliminated the spread of the crack, simply since y'all oasis't gone all the style through the glass, in that location are going to be some "funny" stress points hither and there. You may wind up with a lower or intermediate layer starting to fissure and spread from the drill end, or somewhere else along the existing crack.
If you didn't run something like acetone or lacquer thinner in the crack to clean it - y'all might have bug. Acetone cleans, but more chiefly, disperses and dries up whatever h2o that might be in the crack. Water is your real enemy here, as freeze/thaw action volition cause issues (peradventure not and so much in Sacremento, simply other places could exist a real problem).
The superglue probably won't last for long. Cyanoacrylate glues have extremely low shearing strength, so I'd expect this to flake off with the flexing and stress that occurs for the windshield. Also, the general run-of-the-mill cyanoacrylate glues are non recommended for glass, there's special varieties for use with glass (not sure, in that location may be other formulations for tempered vs. untempered glass as well).
Since you didn't evacuate/purge the air, there's probably still some air trapped in/under the mucilage. Variations in atmospheric force per unit area may requite yous some trouble in as well causing the glue to flake off. In other words, don't drive up and down the Sierra Nevadas oftentimes. I don't know that normal weather barometric pressure will be plenty to cause a problem, merely ....
Honestly, the glues the autoglass guys use is much meliorate suited, and they accept the other equipment to evacuate most of the air to assistance in the glue actually getting into the crack/fleck and bonding with the drinking glass. They aren't perfect either, and if not done correctly tin can still popular out, but mostly much better suited for this blazon of work.
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